“Sunny and bracing.”

“It’s definitely sunny and bracing,” I said – or rather shouted – to the Man of Kent, as we walked along Deal pier, being shunted this way and that by the wind, cheeks buffed pink and noses streaming. On our left, iron grey storm clouds loomed ominously over the town; to the right, jewel-blue skies and bright March sunshine. It was almost all the weather all at once – or as some might say, a typical Spring day in England.

We were in Deal to celebrate our anniversary. The weather was nippy on the Kent coast that weekend, but tropical compared to our wedding day in Northumberland eleven years ago, when the temperature was zero degrees Celsius and half the country was covered in snow. The conditions were a bit of a shock for the Southern contingent of wedding guests, who were not comforted by locals telling them that, “This time last year it was 20 degrees here.” We hold The Man of Kent’s Dad partly responsible for the arctic wedding weather. Upon being informed that we had set a date for March, he nodded and gravely remarked, “It has been known to snow in March.” Fate clearly heard that temptation, and couldn’t resist. On every wedding anniversary since, we’ve done something special to mark the occasion, regardless of weather.

Deal is one of the prettiest seaside towns in Kent. It was once a fortified cinque port, an important part of England’s defences against invasion, and a favoured haunt of smugglers. Nowadays, it’s home to quirky independent shops, excellent restaurants and pubs, and a handful of unusual museums. There’s enough things to do to fill a couple of days, but not so many that you feel like you have to rush to cram everything in, making it ideal for a weekend getaway. Deal is super dog-friendly too; almost every shop and pub has a jar of dog treats on the counter for its canine customers.

Posters from the golden age of travel painted Deal as an ideal holiday destination. Deal still lives up to those expectations today, with its gently bustling high street and seafront, and miles of gorgeous sea view. On a clear day, you can even see France from the pier! Its beautiful coastline has been painted by famous artists including L.S. Lowry and J.M.W Turner. The town has also featured in movies and hit TV dramas, including Liar, Vanity Fair, and The Electrical Life of Louis Wain.

I’ve been to Deal three times now, and each trip has been a delight. If you’ve not been yet, here’s a little guide to things to do and places to go for food and drink. Enjoy!

Where to eat

The Rose

If you’re feeling a bit fancy, head to The Rose on Deal High Street. A gastropub and hotel with several collaborations with top chefs under its belt, it’s been described by food critic Jay Rayner as “a gentle parade of impressive cooking.” It’s a perfect spot for a posh pub lunch and cocktails with friends, or a date with the object of your affections.

Victuals & Co

Tucked away down St George’s Passage, Victuals & Co offers friendly, unstuffy, fine dining in stylish surroundings. Its contemporary menu focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. The Man of Kent and I both had the perfectly cooked venison, then white chocolate cookie dough with strawberry ice cream and hazelnut praline for dessert. (Other desserts were on the menu but having seen the words ‘cookie dough’, we felt no need to seriously consider other options). This was our second visit to this lovely restaurant, and there will definitely be a third at some point.

The Taphouse Beer Cafe

If you’re a craft beer enthusiast like the Man of Kent, you need to go to the Taphouse Beer Cafe. It offers 14 craft beers, three real ciders, 20 craft gins, plus cocktails. We have heard tremendous things about the pizzas at the Taphouse but it seems the universe doesn’t want us to eat them. On our first visit to the Taphouse, there were no free tables for food, so we just stayed for drinks instead and had a delightful evening. This time, we were prepared – we phoned ahead to book a table. Again we were thwarted in our quest, because the pizza chef was on holiday! Instead, there was Lebanese food from Sumac Levantine Cuisine, and what a treat it was! Melt-in-the-mouth Persian pulled lamb and beef koftas, shawarma spiced chips, fluffy falafel, creamy hummus and gorgeous home-made dessert afterwards. Absolutely lush. We have not given up on trying the Taphouse’s pizza though, which gives us a perfect reason to go again (well, that and the fact that the Man of Kent has still not tried the entire beer selection yet). If you’re intending to eat here, make sure you call ahead to book a table.

After more drinks? Try out The Bar, a snug, dog-friendly place on the High Street with a great range of wines, beers and cocktails.

The Bohemian on the seafront is ideal for real ales, Belgian beers and a huge range of spirits – and it’s got a cracking sea view!

The King’s Head

Anyone would enjoy this cosy, welcoming, traditional seafront pub, but cricket fans will be particularly at home. We popped in to The King’s Head for a drink on our first trip to Deal, and the Man of Kent was bowled over (pun intended) by the amazing collection of cricket memorabilia on display. We had resolved to come back for a Sunday lunch on our next visit, and that’s what we did in March. We strolled in, admiring the sporting treasures and old newspaper articles about the town on the walls as we walked to our seats, and – oh dear – it turns out that our table is overlooked by a signed photo of a grinning Nigel Farage standing outside the pub, which he has apparently visited before. The sight was nearly enough to put two remainiacs like us off our lunch. Thankfully, we are made of sterner stuff (and bigger stomachs). A brief shudder and eye-roll, and we carried on regardless. And we were glad we did! A great big plate of Sunday roast was soon headed our way – beef with all the trimmings, gigantic Yorkshire puddings and cauliflower cheese. Being experts at over-ordering, we had pigs in blankets as well. This was a tasty decision but a major tactical failure, as we were so full afterwards we couldn’t manage a dessert. You definitely don’t need a side order with portions as enormous as the ones at the King’s Head, but they taste delicious so do it anyway. We’ll certainly be back next time we’re in Deal, overlooked by Farage or not!

Popup Cafe

Veggie-friendly establishment Popup Cafe is our go-to for breakfast in Deal. It also does brunch, lunch and cakes throughout the day. The superb pastries and coffee are worthy of the best Parisian cafes, and its hearty vegetarian breakfast will satisfy the appetite of even the most die-hard carnivores. I had some of the nicest hot cross buns I have ever eaten here – freshly baked and fruity with a hint of spice. Sit next to the windows that look out onto the high street and enjoy a parade of cuteness as you watch the town’s many gorgeous dogs pass by on walks.

The Lane

Trendy restaurant The Lane is located just off the high street. It’s great for burgers, tacos and light lunches, and does afternoon teas. Sister company The Lane Bakery is five minutes’ walk away and sells pastries, cakes and savouries.

Deal Pier Kitchen

Situated at the end of the pier, the Deal Pier Kitchen‘s views are unbeatable. If it’s full you have to queue on the pier, taking in glorious views of the town and seascape while you wait. We waited outside for a table with the wind whipping up, and sinister storm clouds gathering. We got through the door just as the heavens opened; as we say in the North East, it was stotting down. Thoughtfully, the restaurant provides big golf umbrellas for people still in the queue. Safe and dry inside, it was time to get eating. I had a croque monsieur – somewhat misleadingly named because it was really a ham and cheese toastie without any of the accoutrements that would make it a croque, but it was lovely nonetheless and served with a side of steaming-hot French onion soup – just the ticket given the weather. The Man of Kent went for the lobster and crayfish roll, and to add a touch of weekend decadence, a bloody mary. We shared a scrumptious chocnana cake afterwards before heading back into the hooley outside. You can book ahead for Steak & Lobster evening on Fridays and Saturdays, and for bottomless brunch through the week. Otherwise you’ll have to take your chances and be prepared to wait on the pier, but it’s worth it.

What to do

There’s plenty to do in Deal, whether you’re after shopping, history, or a beautiful walk along the coast.

Walk along the pier and soak up the views

A brutalist-looking structure of reinforced concrete, Deal Pier is the third to be built here, and the last fully intact leisure pier in all of Kent. The bronze sculpture at the pier entrance is by John Buck and called ‘Embracing the Sea’.

The current pier was opened in 1957, making it one of the last pleasure piers to be constructed in the United Kingdom. Deal Pier is recognised internationally as a great place to go fishing, and the catch of the month is listed on a chalkboard at the pier entrance. It was also voted Pier of the Year in 2008.

Explore tunnels and battlements at Deal Castle

Deal Castle is one of 42 artillery forts built by Henry VIII to defend England’s ports and anchorages from invasion, and one of the finest Tudor artillery castles in England. You can wander its circular battlements and underground tunnels, and find out plenty about the history of the area here.

Take a scenic stroll down Middle Street

Perfectly preserved, Middle Street’s Georgian and Victorian houses were once home to wealthy merchants and are full of historic character. It’s an excellent place for photography or just feeling like you’ve wandered back in time.

Delve into movie history at the Kent Museum of the Moving Image

There are posters advertising the Kent Museum of the Moving Image (MOMI) all over Deal. What a hidden treasure trove! Chock-full of posters, equipment, photographs and all sorts of other memorabilia, it’s literally crammed floor to ceiling, wall to wall – managing to be tiny and vast at the same time. You can’t turn around without seeing something fascinating. In this cove of movie treasures, you can journey all the way from the very first photographs through to modern day films. The Victorian magic lantern slides are absolutely charming, and the current exhibitions about the Ealing comedies and wartime films are both informative and entertaining. Tickets are £7 and valid for a year, which is both outrageously good value and just as well, because there’s no way you can possibly take in all of this collection in one go. Film enthusiasts will be in heaven here. MOMI is open all year on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. It holds regular film screenings and has a small café. For more information about the museum, check out this profile in Cene magazine.

Hit the independent shops

Deal is jam-packed with independent and artisan shops. Foodies can stock up on gourmet grocery products at the likes of Arno & Co, The Merchant of Relish and more. Wine buffs will find plenty of quaffables to enjoy at Le Pinardier. John Roper is a proper traditional stationers selling an excellent range of cards, games and locally themed merch. Those with a passion for interior décor will enjoy swanky homewares shops like HOXTON STORE, Will & Yates, Dunlin & Diver and Beach of Deal. Booklovers are also decently catered to by the Deal Bookshop and well-stocked Oxfam bookstore.

Visit the Timeball Tower

What’s a Timeball Tower, you’re wondering? Originally, this tower was part of a chain of shutter telegraph stations built to send messages between Deal and London. When that system was abandoned, the tower became part of the timeball signal system. The ball at the top of the tower would drop at 1pm precisely each day, and was used by ships in the area to ensure their instruments were measuring time accurately. The Timeball Tower is now a museum that’s open to the public in summer, and the ball drops once an hour, instead of once a day.

The sea, the sea

A walk along the coast in Deal is essential. In one direction, you can walk one and a half miles to Walmer, taking obligatory touristy photos of scenic fishing boats and fat seagulls. Once in Walmer, you can visit Walmer Castle and Gardens. The Lighthouse Music & Arts Pub on the way there has regular live music from local acts and international bands. When we went, we had just missed Swedish banjopunk group, Baskery. In the other direction, you can walk from Deal all the way to Sandwich along the Saxon Shore Way if you’re feeling energetic (approximately six miles), or just wander up to Sandown Castle Community Garden, one mile away.

And finally…

The Man of Kent and I are already looking forward to our next trip to Deal, when we’ll be trying out Frog & Scot, Bangkok Pavillion, and hopefully getting to eat a pizza at The Taphouse. If the Timeball Tower is open on our next visit, we’ll be going round that too, as well as returning to Kent MOMI. I will, of course, report back when we do.

Have you been to Deal? Share your tips for what to do and where to go in the comments!