“Never eat more than you can lift.”

Miss Piggy

I am standing on a traffic island in the middle of Watling Street. I think I have achieved something almost impossible – being in two places at once. On this bit of Watling Street, one side is in Chatham, and the other is in Gillingham. So if my calculations are correct, my left foot is in Gillingham, and my right foot is in Chatham: two places at once. That’s just one of many interesting things about this apparently average road.

Watling Street is a really long street – 276 miles long to be exact, stretching all the way from Dover to Anglesey in North Wales. It passes through many towns and cities, and has connections to Charles Dickens, James Bond and Star Wars. As John Higgs writes in his informative book, ‘Watling Street: Travels Through Britain and Its Ever-Present Past’, Watling Street is a road that is “simultaneously mundane and extraordinary.”

Watling Street is also really old. According to some historians, it even pre-dates the Romans. The name Watling Street originated in the Dark Ages and comes from the word ‘Waecla’. Waecla was a local warlord whose people were known as the Waeclingas. According to John Higgs, the Waeclingas didn’t actually build the road we now know as Watling Street. It was just named after the Waeclingas because it ran through their territory. The original name of the road was “Waeclinga Straet”, which later became ‘Watling Street’. That’s the name you will still see used along many parts of the modern day road, including in Kent.

Watling Street runs right through Medway, and the bit I know best is in Gillingham. Disappointingly, the Medway part of Watling Street gets scant coverage in John Higgs’ book, and Gillingham doesn’t even get a mention. But I think it’s worth talking about, so here we go.

Watling Street in Gillingham is busy. Four lanes of traffic punctuated by pedestrian crossings and cluttered with traffic lights and road signs. It’s not the most scenic street in the world, to be honest. There are lovely Victorian houses on one side, and the old Palace Cinema building and the striking contemporary fire station on the other – but the road itself is pretty noisy and traffic-choked most days.

But, Watling Street is also a place that has everything you need. It’s got newsagents, pharmacies, vets, opticians, dentists, chiropodists and hairdressers. It’s got one-of-a-kind specialist shops like Strum & Bass music store, Sew ‘n’ Sew alterations and dress-making, and The Lamp Post electrical supplies. Importantly, it’s also got several excellent places to eat.

Many pilgrims walked along Watling Street on their way to Canterbury Cathedral, and the Medway towns along the route were handy places to stop for food and rest. There’s quicker and easier routes to Canterbury these days, but if you find yourself in the area and want a good meal, here’s four great restaurants on Watling Street to try out.

Rowlands Bistro, 66 Watling Street, Gillingham

Rowlands Bistro is a favourite of the Man of Kent and mine, and guests to our house are regularly taken there. The verdict is always unanimous – it’s smashing. Its generous, home-cooked meals are hearty, tasty, and superb value (the set mid-week menu is 3 courses for £19.95), and it’s run by an absolutely lovely team. What I love about Rowlands is its versatility. It’s perfect for a special occasion or general get-together with friends and family, but also ideal for those nights when you’re knackered after a hard day at work and just want a delicious meal in a restful place. Almost everything on the menu comes with a choice of chips, rice, dauphinoise or new potatoes, and veg or salad, so even the fussiest eaters you know should be able to find something they like. It’s got a buzzy atmosphere at the weekend when there’s usually at least one table celebrating a birthday, if not several. On weeknights, it’s quieter but still cosy and convivial. The Man of Kent and I have been going there for more years than I care to count, and I hope we’ll be going there for many more to come.

Galata Diner & Cocktail Bar, 23 Watling Street, Gillingham

I remember when I first found out about Galata opening. I was driving down Watling Street and saw a sign saying that a new diner and cocktail bar would be coming soon. A cocktail bar? In Gillingham? This was an exciting development, and a distracting one – I was so surprised I nearly didn’t stop at the red light! Galata opened in 2023 and hasn’t disappointed. It’s bright, bustling and friendly. It does great cocktails and tasty Turkish food, with plenty of vegetarian options. The Man of Kent and I had cocktails at Galata last year but it was only a couple of Saturdays ago that we ate there for the first time. Turkish sausage for starter followed by lamb kebab for him, and falafel wrap with chips for me. For dessert, he had banana waffle with ice cream and I had baklava. All absolutely scrumptious. By the end of the meal, we were ‘filling out the corners’ as the hobbits say, feeling stuffed and happy. On weekends you might want to book ahead – we went at 7pm and by 8pm almost every table in the place was taken. I love to see new local places doing so well.

Ela Kendro, 84 Watling Street, Gillingham

If you’re after authentic, top-notch Greek food, Ela Kendro will serve it to you in hefty portions. Their menu features Greek classics like kleftiko, moussaka and souvlakia, and a selection of hot and cold meze. You will not leave this restaurant hungry. The Man of Kent and I never fail to over-order when we go there. Despite telling ourselves on every visit that ‘the portions are very generous so this time we will order sensibly,’ we constantly fail to achieve this. Whatever you do, save room for some of the excellent baklava for dessert. Ela Kendro was a finalist for ‘best restaurant’ in the Kent and Medway Food and Drink Awards 2024 – well deserved, in my view.

The Watling Rasoi, 13-15 Watling Street, Chatham

The Watling Rasoi is relatively new, opening in 2023. It’s contemporary, sophisticated and serves superb Indian food in stylish surroundings. The dishes are flavourful, generous and abundant. The menu features traditional classics and modern options, with all the accompaniments you would expect. I’ve only been there once so far, but I’m confident it’s going to become a regular haunt.

Everyone loves a restaurant that they can walk to from their house, and stroll/stagger back from after a hearty meal out. I feel lucky to have four such excellent, reasonably-priced restaurants to choose from just up the road. Try one of them out next time you’re in Gillingham.